简体中文
(THE WALL STREET JOURNAL) OFTEN NOTEDas a place where the Old and New Worlds happily collide, Quebec City could pinch-hit for a European metropolis, with cobblestone streets and picturesque river views aplenty. French is almost always spoken—though English-speaking visitors are readily accommodated—and you can find a fairly stellar croissant without breaking a sweat.
But this Canadian city of almost 800,000 isn’t stuck in the past. Like Montreal, it has become a hipster magnet in recent years thanks to innovative restaurants like bistro L’Affaire est Ketchup and farm-to-table Légende, and a flourishing cultural scene. Later this year, a new exhibition space at the Musée national des beaux-artsdu Québec designed by starchitectRem Koolhaas’s OMA will open. The major draw is St.-Roch, a former working-class neighborhood now lined with chic boutiques, bars and eateries.
In the summer, buskers dot the streets and boats cruise the river, but don’t think the city slows down during the winter. If anything, residents take pleasure in defying the weather—it’s still bone-chilling in March—finding any excuse to ski, ice skate or sled.
The Gourmet | Arnaud Marchand
Chef-owner ofChez Boulay, a local foodie favorite
IMAGINATIVE EATS // Restaurant Initiale.I used to work at this very inventive French restaurant 10 years ago and really respect the chef,Yvan Lebrun.He is passionate about food and using local products. Try the scallops.54 rue St.-Pierre,restaurantinitiale.com
WINTRY WALK // Quartier Petit Champlain. This neighborhood is like a very old village within Old Quebec. It’s where the city started. To walk through it in the winter is magical.quartierpetitchamplain.com
TRADEMARK TREAT // Chocolats Favoris.The classic place for chocolate in Quebec City.65 blvd. René-Lévesque Ouest,chocolatsfavoris.com
ISLAND ADVENTURE // Île d’Orléans. A quiet, rural island connected to the mainland by a bridge. It’s just a few minutes from Quebec City. When you enter, you feel like your whole world changes.tourisme.iledorleans.com
The Wordsmith |Marie Laberge
Quebec-born and bred playwright, novelist, actress and director
GREEN SCENE // Battlefields Park. When the weather is good, it’s a nice place to have a picnic. The Jeanne d’Arc Garden is an especially beautiful spot.ccbn-nbc.gc.ca
**ART **ATTACK // Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec.It’s a huge museum, but I come in particular to look at the work of two Canadian painters: JeanPaul Lemieuxand Jean-Paul Riopelle.National Battlefields Park,mnbaq.org
ROOMS WITH A VIEW // Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. A landmark place in Quebec City. I love having a drink at the hotel’s bar. The view of the St. Lawrence River from there is something.1 rue des Carrières,fairmont.com/frontenac
BOOK NOOK // Maison de la Littérature. It’s a library, but at the same time it’s a museum about the authors of Quebec City. They have studio space for writers and offer lectures and show films.40 rue St.-Stanislas,maisondelalitterature.qc.ca
The Culture Vulture | Daniel Gélinas
General manager ofQuebec City Summer Festival
French Fare // Le Saint-Amour. It’s famous for its classic French cuisine. When musicians come to Quebec City, likeStingorPaul McCartney,they all eat here.48 rue St.-Ursule,saint-amour.com
ROUGH AND READY // Latulippe. A store for all things for the outdoors—hunting, fishing, skiing. I go there to get snowshoes and ski pants. I love the big moose at the entrance.637 rue St.-Vallier Ouest,latulippe.com
SLOPE CENTRAL // Le Massif de Charlevoix.This ski area is about an hour away from Quebec City. It’s the only place you can ski and see the St. Lawrence River at the same time.lemassif.com
SOUND SETTING // Le Capitole. A concert hall right at the entrance of Old Quebec—an old and charming venue where you can have dinner and a drink and enjoy a show at the same time.972 rue St.-Jean,lecapitole.com
The Clothier | Peter Simons
Chief executive ofLa Maison Simonsdepartment store, founded in Quebec in 1840
SKATE SESSION // Patinoire de la Place D’Youville.This outdoor skating rink is in front of the Palais Montcalm, a concert hall within Old Quebec. I go there with my kids. We rent skates and have hot chocolate afterward.995 place D’Youville, 418-641-6256
MILITARY MIGHT // Musée du Fort. The sound-and-light show lasts about 30 minutes and gives you an overview of the city’s military history. There’s even smoke and cannon sounds.10 rue St.-Anne,museedufort.com
SHOW TIME // Théâtre Petit Champlain. A little theater in the Quartier Petit Champlain. They have a variety of local productions and also performances by solo musical artists.68 rue du Petit-Champlain,theatrepetitchamplain.com
COFFEE BREAK // Paillard. A popular French bakery. It’s my go-to for coffee and macarons.1097 rue St.-Jean,paillard.ca
Plus, Don’t Miss…
Chez AshtonThis popular local fast-food chain is famous for its poutine, the beloved Canadian version of cheese fries.chez-ashton.com
Galerie d’art Inuit Brousseau et BrousseauA gallery devoted to Canadian Inuit art, with a particular focus on sculptures.35 rue St.-Louis,artinuit.ca
Boutique OclanThis stylish set of shops carries men’s and women’s selections from brands such as RVLT and La Fée Maraboutée.67½ rue du Petit Champlain (men), 52 blvd. Champlain (women),oclan.net
Épicerie J.A. MoisanFounded in 1871, this is the oldest grocery store in North America, offering gourmet products and Quebec specialties.695 rue St.-Jean,jamoisan.com
Quebec-Lévis FerryThe ride across the river to Lévis is a great way to see—and snap—the skyline.traversiers.com
