Backstage at Elie Saab Couture Spring 2017

WWD

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Both the hair and makeup looks at

Elie Saab

’s spring couture show gave a nod to Egypt between the Forties and Sixties.

Makeup artist Tom Pecheux explained that the designer’s fashion collection was full of skin tones, from off white to dark beige.

“The only touch of color was blue — from baby blue to dark blue,” he said. “I was thinking the makeup needs to be quite minimal, but powerful.”

When Pecheux reflected on what marked the 30-year stretch makeup-wise, he decided it was eyeliner. “But I wanted an eyeliner that was a little bit more than black eyeliner, so I decided to go for duo eyeliner,” he continued.

Blue liner followed the contour of models’ eye shape, then black liner created a wing. “There’s something quite architectural,’ said Pecheux, who explained the rest of the look included a matte satin finish to skin that had a bit of contour. Lips remained nude.

Orlando Pita gave models a middle parting and tucked hair behind their ears. Tresses fell with a slight movement in the back after being curled with an iron and blown-dry.

Topping it all off were headbands in cloth or metal, with geometric shapes.

“We decorated the head so it looked kind of royal — like a princess or queen — but still keeping it very contemporary,” he said.

“This couture is very embroidered, very charged up. So I think it’s better just to keep the girl minimal.”

For that effect, Pita used his own brand’s The Great Inflate Air Whipped Styling Foam and hairspray.

(WWD)