Gigi and Kendall give '90s beauty vibes at Anna Sui

Technically, the beauty for Anna Sui's show—a darkly decadent heap of glossy velvet and lamé layers—was based on '40s photos.

"It's coming from Elsa Schiaperelli's old parties, the ones with circus themes and crazy eccentrics," said Garren the hair guru, name-checking duchess

Wallis Simpson

and designerElsie de Wolfe

. "So we're doing the '40s in a new way, with severe side parts for short hair and a kind of 'Mickey Mouse twirl' for long hair. In the '40s, [the hair] would be rolled, but we want to keep the natural texture instead."

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That meant models like Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner got puff pigtails on top and beach waves underneath—a style that may have '40s roots, but also riffs on Britney Spears, Gwen Stefani, Baby Spice, and the Limited Too catalog circa 1996. Do it yourself with

R+Co's Outer Space Spray

for the puffs, andSail Soft Wave Spray

for the loose hair underneath.

For makeup, Pat McGrath eschewed contouring ("Anna [Sui]'s not really into a heavy brow," she explained). Instead, she paired a deep burgundy lip with blue glittery eyes, because—she winked—"it'll beallabout the blue, won't it?"

We expect to see a cobalt shade on

PatMcGrath.com

soon...at least until it sells out in five seconds.

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(ELLE)