AFP Photo
Havana is a ghost town. The American convertibles swooned over by tourists are back in the garage, while most restaurants and cafes are closed.
Cuba's private sector has been suffering since the island nation closed its borders over the coronavirus pandemic.
In the charming old building where the 1993 comedy "Strawberry and Chocolate" was filmed, a spiral staircase leads to the deserted La Guarida, the most famous privately-owned restaurant, or "paladar," in Cuba.
"We decided to close the restaurant from March 15," nine days before Cuba's authorities imposed their first virus-linked restrictions, said owner Enrique Nunez.
By Saturday, the country of 11.2 million people had close to 1,000 coronavirus cases and 32 deaths.
Cuba's private sector has little by little managed to make its mark over recent years: it now employs almost 635,000 people, or 14 percent of Cuba's work force.
Street art of a man wearing a mask in Havana, Cuba. /AP
These Cubans rent out rooms, run small restaurants or hair salons, among other activities.
So they quickly sensed the danger: two days after the borders were closed to non-residents – a measure subsequently expanded to all arrivals – 16,000 private workers asked for their licenses to be suspended, according to the Labor Ministry, which temporarily exempted them from taxes.
By Wednesday that figure had risen to 119,000, around 19 percent of the private workforce.
In January and February, tourist numbers were down 16.5 percent on the previous year, with a drop of 65 percent for Americans.
"Sorry, we're closed," says the old metal sign attached to El Cafe, a coffee shop in Havana's now deserted old town, popular among tourists.
Loliet Gonzalez, a 25-year-old psychology student who's worked there for two years, said her earnings "allow me to have the quality of life I want."
Her boss gave her two weeks' salary to keep her going through the crisis.
"For now I'm fine but there will come a time when I'll have to delve into my savings," said Gonzalez.
The owner, Nelson Rodriguez, is already planning for a future in which Cuba's private enterprises cannot rely on tourists in the same way as before.
"If there aren't any tourists, we'll have to focus on Cuban people, so maybe we'll have to adapt our business" to the disposable income of locals, said Rodriguez, his face covered by a mask.
Source(s): AFP