Profile: Keeping costume-making craftsmanship alive

APD NEWS

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As a member of the Bouyei ethnic group, Wang Jing knew from an early age that costume-making skills had long been a crucial part of the identity of her people.

"Making clothes has always been an essential skill of Bouyei women," said Wang, an inheritor of the national intangible cultural heritage of Bouyei clothing. "Bouyei women who can't make clothes would be seen as lacking femininity."

Born into a Bouyei family in southwest China's Guizhou Province in the 1970s, Wang grew up wearing clothes made by her grandmother and mother.

When she was a child, Wang was always fascinated by the clothes-making process, watching attentively as elderly Bouyei women wove a variety of patterns with their skilled hands. She began learning the craft at about 10 years of age.

"Bouyei costumes are made with a variety of techniques, including yarn-dye, batik, tie-dye, cross-stitch and brocade. There is a whole set of procedures," Wang said.

In 1991, Wang went to Beijing to study fashion design. After graduating, she returned to Guizhou to work as a designer in a batik factory.

At that time, there were many foreign tourists visiting the factory, who showed a strong interest in the traditional and exotic apparel.

"It dawned on me that I could become a promoter of my hometown's traditional costumes," she recalled.

In 1998, Wang quit her job at the factory and returned to her hometown to start her own designing business, with just two apprentices and three sewing machines.

Wang's career breakthrough came in 2001, when her work -- a painting and three sets of costumes -- won wide acclaim at a local cultural festival.

"The beauty of Bouyei clothing lies in its simplicity," Wang said. "However, people's aesthetics invariably change with the development of society."

"Without innovation, even the most precious things will gradually fall out of favor. Innovation is the best way to pass on culture," she added.

In traditional Bouyei wear, shoulder pads are often sewn into the garment, functioning as a cushion for the wearer when carrying heavy loads.

In her designs, Wang put shoulder pads embroidered with Roxburgh roses on the outside of the clothing, an innovation that combined function with fashion.

In 2013, Wang was invited by Guizhou's commerce bureau to participate in an event in London. To her surprise, dozens of bags featuring Bouyei elements she brought with her were a hit with local people and quickly sold out.

"I was very excited and proud," Wang recalled. After the trip, Wang also went to Singapore and Russia to promote her work, which gained increasing popularity among foreigners.

In 2014, Bouyei clothing was listed as a national intangible cultural heritage. Four years later, Wang was named its national inheritor.

"Passing on traditional culture can enhance our cultural confidence. I will continue to make innovations and promote Bouyei costumes to the world," Wang said.